A Perfect Fall Weekend in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom: Three Days of Quirky Meanderings
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Drive northeast through Vermont’s Green Mountains, and you will eventually reach the wildest corner of the state before bumping into Canada.
This sprawling land of lakes and ponds dotted with moose and tiny hardscrabble villages is the Northeast Kingdom. And while it’s not the hidden gem it used to be, this region is perfect for folks who want to slow down, leave the crowds behind, and discover beautiful landscapes, world-class beer, and wacky attractions that couldn’t possibly exist anywhere else.
Fall colors sweep across the region a week or two earlier than the rest of the state, late September in some years and early October in others.
This three-day itinerary is based in Hardwick, a working town featuring my favorite coffee shop, the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, a few stellar restaurants, and a dog-friendly bookstore. I’ve stayed in two different spots here, and another in nearby Greensboro, and I would happily recommend any of them.
I’ve pulled together some of my favorite spots from my larger guide to the Northeast Kingdom, and arranged them into a leisurely long weekend with easy trails, good food, and special spots this area is known for.
At-A-Glance Trip Planner
Best time to go: Late September through the first week of October. The Kingdom peaks earlier than much of Vermont, so if you’re exploring other parts of the state for a fall getaway, start here first.
Where to stay: In Hardwick, I love Stone City Treehouse & Glamping, a rustic but comfy glamping property with a two-person, dog-friendly treehouse and a lovely glamping tent. I’ve also stayed in this comfy-cozy, two-bedroom apartment in downtown (also dog-friendly), and the incredible Fallingwater Airstream in Greensboro. Take your pick; you can’t go wrong! If you’re looking for more of an inn experience, check out the Highland Lodge in Greensboro, which has mid-century style rooms and cabins available.
Getting there: Burlington International (BTV) is about 75 minutes from Hardwick. You’ll want a car. There is no way around it up here.
Dog-friendly? Very. Several stops on this trip roll out the welcome mat for pups, and all three lodging recommendations allow dogs.
Don’t forget to pack: Layers, waterproof boots, and a headlamp for the dark Kingdom nights.
Why Hardwick Works as a Fall Home Base
Hardwick is located at the crossroads of the central and northeastern Kingdom, which means you’re never more than about 40 minutes from anything on this list (lodging ideas in the At-A-Glance Trip Planner).
It’s an unpretentious granite town (they once carved the stone that built half of New England’s civic buildings) that has more recently become a local food hub; you can spend the day exploring and still enjoy incredible food every evening.
Greensboro and its famous brewery are 15 minutes north. Glover and its gloriously strange museums are 20 minutes east. Lake Willoughby is about 40 minutes out. And St. Johnsbury, the Kingdom’s cultural anchor, is a half hour south. You get the wildness of the Kingdom without ever driving very far to find dinner.
Day One: Settle In and Sip Local
Late Morning or Early Afternoon: Arrive and explore Hardwick
Roll into Hardwick late morning and stretch your legs with a walk around the compact downtown, which hugs the Lamoille River. Grab a coffee and a pastry at Front Seat Coffee (101 South Main Street: my favorite coffee shop in the state and dog-friendly) to fuel up. If you need to stock up on groceries or picnic supplies, pop into Buffalo Mountain Co-op (75 Mill Street).
Lunch: Caja Taqueria (154 West Route 14) serves up street tacos, burritos, and nachos, and the outdoor patio is dog-friendly.
Take the Scenic Route Through Craftsbury Common
One of Vermont’s prettiest villages is about 15 minutes north of Hardwick.
While there isn’t a whole lot to do in Craftsbury Common (the former home of Sterling College), there are dozens of white clapboard buildings surrounding a town green with a gazebo and old maple trees that blaze with color in the fall. It’s a short stop that pays for itself in gorgeous fall colors.
Afternoon in Greensboro: Barr Hill and Hill Farmstead
From Craftsbury, it’s a short hop to Greensboro. First stop: a short hike to the top of Barr Hill, one of the highest points in the area. You’ll be treated to gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains, including Woodbury Mountain, Camel’s Hump, Elmore Mountain, and Mount Mansfield.
The hike is less than a mile round trip, and traverses an overgrown meadow into dark, coniferous woods. Leashed dogs are welcome on this hike.
Next, head to Hill Farmstead Brewery, a back-road brewery consistently ranked among the best in the world since it opened in 2010. Enjoy a craft brew on the sprawling lawn that has been in the same family for eight generations. Fall foliage views are epic here, and while dogs are welcome to enjoy the outdoor area and the retail shop, they are not allowed in the taproom.
Dinner: Head back to Hardwick for dinner at the Cork & Fork (41 South Main Street). This upscale American bistro has great ambiance. They do not have outdoor seating and can’t accommodate dogs, but they can do takeout if you don’t want to leave your pup behind. Get the tiramisu if you can; it’s divine!
Day Two: Puppets, Oddities, and the Kingdom’s Crown Jewel
Today is the big one, so fuel up and start early. Head back to Front Seat Coffee for all the caffeine and pastries. It’s okay, you’re on vacation.
Morning: Bread and Puppet and the Museum of Everyday Life
Today, we’re exploring another epic small town. Glover is about 20 minutes from Hardwick, and home to two of the most delightfully unusual stops in Vermont.
First, the Bread and Puppet Theater and Museum, one of the oldest nonprofit political theater companies in the country. It’s delightfully weird, and a tad spooky until you get your bearings, but it’s also an experience you won’t likely forget!
Visit the 150-year-old barn filled with towering, larger-than-life papier-mache puppets. Open daily from 9 am to 6 pm, this is a self-serve museum, which means you turn on the lights to explore two floors of politically charged puppet displays spanning 60 years of Bread and Puppet’s creativity.
A few minutes down the road, the Museum of Everyday Life celebrates the humble objects we overlook, from safety pins to toothbrushes. Rotating exhibitions take a closer look at some of our most beloved objects, from wheels to chairs (the 2026 exhibition).
Lunch: Parker Pie Co. in West Glover
Who knew that you could find next-level wood-fired pizza in the Northeast Kingdom? Parker Pie Co. (161 County Rd, West Glover) sits just minutes from both Bread and Puppet and the Museum of Everyday Life. It’s a cozy, wood-fired pizza joint tucked behind a country store that draws people from all over the Kingdom.
The pies are excellent, with locally sourced toppings, and the beer list is long, making it the perfect refuel before an afternoon hike. Your furry co-pilot can join you on the dog-friendly patio.
Early Afternoon: Lake Willoughby
Drive 25 minutes east toward Lake Willoughby, Vermont’s second-deepest lake, a fjord-like ribbon of crystal-clear water between the cliffs of Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor. There are public beaches at the north and south tips with incredible views of the towering cliffs.
Fair warning if bare butts bother you — South Beach is clothing optional.
Afternoon: Hike above the lake
For classic views that won’t quit, the trails up both Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor climb to overlooks that gaze straight down the length of the lake. You can choose to hike either of these steep mountains, or you can simply wander along the easier South Shore Trail for waterside views.
Mount Pisgah is a very popular 4.5-mile hike with dramatic views from Pulpit Rock after climbing 1,650 feet. It’s rated as difficult, but so worth it. Mount Hor is a bit shorter and easier, with a less dramatic but still gorgeous view. The hike comes in at 3.3 miles round trip, with about 850 feet of elevation gain.
A note for dog owners: These trails are dog-friendly, but leashes are important here due to the sensitive vegetation and steep cliffs.
Late Afternoon: Drive the Burke Mountain Toll Road
From Lake Willoughby, it’s about 20 minutes to the Burke Mountain Toll Road, a historic toll road built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s that zigzags to the top of Burke Mountain.
It’s $10 for a carload to drive to the top and open through late October. From the parking area at the top of the mountain, you can hike the summit trails and climb the fire tower for a panorama that stretches from the Green Mountains to Willoughby Gap and into Canada.
Dinner: From Burke, it’s a short drive to the Wildflower Inn on Darling Hill in Lyndonville, where the restaurant serves scratch-made meals from locally sourced ingredients and pours a nice selection of Vermont craft beer.
The real draw at the Wildflower Inn is the setting. The dining room and terrace look out over the valley to what the inn bills as the best sunset view in the Kingdom, which makes a fitting send-off for your last full night in the region. Dogs are welcome in the outdoor seating area. From here it’s about 40 minutes back to Hardwick.
Day Three: A Corn Maze, a Museum, and a Chapel for Dogs
Morning in Hardwick
Have breakfast in town, either back at Front Seat Coffee for your favorite drink and pastries, or you can get a serious maple fix by ordering the loaded banana bread French toast at the Village Restaurant (74 South Main Street). Can’t go wrong either way!
The Great Vermont Corn Maze
Start in Danville at the Great Vermont Corn Maze (1404 Wheelock Road), the largest in New England. This is no ordinary maze. It’s a rite of passage and covers 24 acres. Each year brings a different theme, but to explore the ‘big maze,’ expect to spend 2-3 hours on the trails, cross more than 100 bridges, and even explore some underground tunnels.
If you have less time, check out the scenic maze, a more relaxed version of its big brother. The scenic maze takes about an hour and showcases some of the cool features of the bigger maze.
A few things to know before you go: The Great Vermont Corn Maze is seasonal and weather-dependent. Last entry is around noon on weekdays and 1 pm on weekends, and the season usually wraps up in mid-October. Unfortunately, dogs are not allowed in the maze.
The Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium
From Danville, it’s a 15-minute drive to St. Johnsbury, the cultural center of the Kingdom. There’s lots to explore here, but one of our favorite stops is the Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium. This old-fashioned natural history museum features more than 30,000 objects under a barrel-vaulted ceiling, from taxidermy and exotic insects to ancient artifacts from around the world.
It’s also home to Vermont’s only public planetarium, a perfect rainy-day backup if the weather turns. Dogs are not allowed in the museum.
Dog Mountain and the Dog Chapel
Dog Mountain is a 150-acre hilltop just outside St. Johnsbury, created by the late artist Stephen Huneck as an off-leash paradise where dogs can run, swim in the pond, and live their best lives.
Dog Mountain is always open and free, but donations are gratefully accepted. Spend a few tearful moments in the beloved Dog Chapel, its walls papered floor to ceiling with notes remembering beloved pets who have passed. Bring tissues.
Even if you don’t have a dog, this is a moving place, and there’s no more fitting way to end a Kingdom weekend than watching happy pups tear across a hilltop of fall color.
Tips for a Northeast Kingdom Fall Weekend
- Go early in the season. The Kingdom’s color peaks before the rest of Vermont, often in the last week of September and into the first week of October, depending on the year.
- Download your GPS map beforehand. Services are sparse between towns, and you won’t always have cell service. I recommend downloading the map area where you’ll be traveling on either Apple or Google Maps. Same goes for AllTrails if you use it when you hike.
- Bring cash. Cash is king in the Kingdom. Many small businesses take only cash, and others charge extra if you pay with a card.
- Go it your own way. There are so many spots that I couldn’t include in this itinerary, so don’t be afraid to forge your own path away from what I’ve laid out for you. You won’t regret it!
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